Winter Blooms Strong and Vibrant!

Wordless ~ A Dog and her Bone

Art of Watering ~ Steve

Nothing could seem simpler, but watering is one of the most difficult things you can do in a nursery – and in your home garden.

An obvious example would be the world of succulents, where it is common knowledge to avoid watering and let your plants live. As you know, one plant can have quite different demands than another. As a nursery person or a gardener, you have to keep your wits about you. And knowing not all plants are equal is really only the start down the path of watering correctly.

So, why do I think that watering is an art and needs to be approached with some thought? Here are some reasons:

• if the plant is not metabolizing (it is too young or too sickly and challenged) it can’t use the water you would like to give it and, in fact, if you continue to blindly water the poor thing, you will encourage rot.

• your potted plants need air as much as they need water – maybe they need it more than water. If the water pushes the air out of the spaces between the soil particles, then the chemical reactions that would normally occur there are impended. It could be your plant is yellow not because it is missing nitrogen, but because it is too wet for chemical interactions. Wait until the soil is dry down to your first or second knuckle before watering.

• The quickest way to kill a potted plant is to over water it. Hey, you might think, “It looks sick, I think I’ll give it some water.” Stop and consider.  Constantly wet, as opposed to moist, soil dramatically increases the likelihood of fungal disease and soil insect infestations… Fungus gnats – oh, those fungus gnats.

• oh, did I mention under watering? This is as bad as over watering and many people’s first response to an over watering issue is to over-react and under water. But without moisture throughout your root ball, your roots will begin to wither – dead roots invite disease and insects.

Getting worried yet? Well, don’t. Just study your plant and its needs and apply same. Use the good old internet to give you more information than you want to know

Potted Beauty

‘Chokes ~ Steve

Artichokes have always had a special place in my heart.

I was raised by a Sicilian mother and grandmother and the image of my Nana’s stuffed artichokes on the Sunday table is still very clear in my mind. And, of course, I am a Californian – somehow we seem more inclined than others to seek out this unique vegetable – maybe it’s our climate, maybe it’s our West Coast on-the-edge-of-the-planet attitude. Anyway, if you haven’t tried this incredible food, then experiment. And, if you haven’t grown it, oh well, but don’t pass up the chance. Talk about a Jurassic opportunity – the only thing that has impressed me more than a healthy stand of artichoke might be a planting of the tropical-looking Gunnera with its four to six-foot wide leaves.

The most common artichoke in the market place is the large, green Globe. But other cultivars are available and those are the ones we tend to grow. We like the somewhat stronger taste and the color and variation we can get. The Violetto is small, shapely and purple tinged and cooks up very tender. The Grosso Romanesco is very large and also tinged purple – stuff bread crumbs and romano cheese between the leaves of this one and then cook it up.

We plant our seed up here in Northern California at the end of February or the beginning of March. We keep them warm and moist under cover in our hothouse and we usually pot them up once before putting them out after all chance of frost is gone. They are a genetically variable plant and will sprout sports that are different from the mother plant. They are commonly grown along the California coast where the temperature remains constantly moderate and the moist atmosphere keeps the plants cool. Keep them out of the searing sun if you plant in hotter locations – dappled light would work well. Around here, they are the most lush in the spring and in the fall when the summer heat is not a factor. They want well turned, very fertile and moist soil. Take the time to mulch carefully – at least 3-6 inches deep to keep their feet cool.

Harvest is usually in the Spring after planting, sometimes that fall. Then the plant is good for about 3-5 years. Although we have had a healthy producing ‘Choke plant for 15-20 years, beware though, the older they get the more they regress, growing spikes all over the plant and the buds.  Don’t forget to cut the buds before they burst into flower!  But I recommend leaving a few, ’cause the flowers are quite pretty.