Art of Watering ~ Steve

Nothing could seem simpler, but watering is one of the most difficult things you can do in a nursery – and in your home garden.

An obvious example would be the world of succulents, where it is common knowledge to avoid watering and let your plants live. As you know, one plant can have quite different demands than another. As a nursery person or a gardener, you have to keep your wits about you. And knowing not all plants are equal is really only the start down the path of watering correctly.

So, why do I think that watering is an art and needs to be approached with some thought? Here are some reasons:

• if the plant is not metabolizing (it is too young or too sickly and challenged) it can’t use the water you would like to give it and, in fact, if you continue to blindly water the poor thing, you will encourage rot.

• your potted plants need air as much as they need water – maybe they need it more than water. If the water pushes the air out of the spaces between the soil particles, then the chemical reactions that would normally occur there are impended. It could be your plant is yellow not because it is missing nitrogen, but because it is too wet for chemical interactions. Wait until the soil is dry down to your first or second knuckle before watering.

• The quickest way to kill a potted plant is to over water it. Hey, you might think, “It looks sick, I think I’ll give it some water.” Stop and consider.  Constantly wet, as opposed to moist, soil dramatically increases the likelihood of fungal disease and soil insect infestations… Fungus gnats – oh, those fungus gnats.

• oh, did I mention under watering? This is as bad as over watering and many people’s first response to an over watering issue is to over-react and under water. But without moisture throughout your root ball, your roots will begin to wither – dead roots invite disease and insects.

Getting worried yet? Well, don’t. Just study your plant and its needs and apply same. Use the good old internet to give you more information than you want to know

‘Chokes ~ Steve

Artichokes have always had a special place in my heart.

I was raised by a Sicilian mother and grandmother and the image of my Nana’s stuffed artichokes on the Sunday table is still very clear in my mind. And, of course, I am a Californian – somehow we seem more inclined than others to seek out this unique vegetable – maybe it’s our climate, maybe it’s our West Coast on-the-edge-of-the-planet attitude. Anyway, if you haven’t tried this incredible food, then experiment. And, if you haven’t grown it, oh well, but don’t pass up the chance. Talk about a Jurassic opportunity – the only thing that has impressed me more than a healthy stand of artichoke might be a planting of the tropical-looking Gunnera with its four to six-foot wide leaves.

The most common artichoke in the market place is the large, green Globe. But other cultivars are available and those are the ones we tend to grow. We like the somewhat stronger taste and the color and variation we can get. The Violetto is small, shapely and purple tinged and cooks up very tender. The Grosso Romanesco is very large and also tinged purple – stuff bread crumbs and romano cheese between the leaves of this one and then cook it up.

We plant our seed up here in Northern California at the end of February or the beginning of March. We keep them warm and moist under cover in our hothouse and we usually pot them up once before putting them out after all chance of frost is gone. They are a genetically variable plant and will sprout sports that are different from the mother plant. They are commonly grown along the California coast where the temperature remains constantly moderate and the moist atmosphere keeps the plants cool. Keep them out of the searing sun if you plant in hotter locations – dappled light would work well. Around here, they are the most lush in the spring and in the fall when the summer heat is not a factor. They want well turned, very fertile and moist soil. Take the time to mulch carefully – at least 3-6 inches deep to keep their feet cool.

Harvest is usually in the Spring after planting, sometimes that fall. Then the plant is good for about 3-5 years. Although we have had a healthy producing ‘Choke plant for 15-20 years, beware though, the older they get the more they regress, growing spikes all over the plant and the buds.  Don’t forget to cut the buds before they burst into flower!  But I recommend leaving a few, ’cause the flowers are quite pretty.

 

Gardening is about enjoying the smell of things growing in the soil, getting dirty without feeling guilty, and generally taking the time to soak up a little peace and serenity. ~Lindley Karstens

Early Spring Fever (I know, I know, it’s still February) ~ via Steve

Its a bit of a slog, but a pleasant slog (is that an oxymoron?), as MileWide Nursery splashes through winter. We have finally gotten the rain we needed – I heard it might be as much as 60 inches already. And I am hoping for a few more stormy weeks just like the last ones. You can hardly run a nursery or an orchard without water.

The Nursery can be a wet place. You have to pick and choose your jobs to suit the weather. The other day, we tried to dig up our rosemary bonsai candidates but the ground was just too wet – all mud-clumps.  Even so, the Romanesco artichoke is loving it and my Chinese peonies are starting to leaf.

Our Peony think it's spring too!

I don’t know what it is about January and February, but I have just got to plant something, start some plants, paw through a catalog and pick some seeds. I couldn’t wait any longer and I planted up a few trays of tomato, pepper and eggplant seeds today. Last week or so, I brought hydrangea up to the hothouse to force them along and they have leafed out beyond expectations.

Hydrangea in the hothouse, the wires hold up the remay when it's cold.

Aren't veggie starts the cutest thing you've ever seen??

The big push for this winter has been the new irrigation system in the olive orchard; which is coming along very nicely – three acres trenched, pipes laid and glued. This weekend we will start adding in the drippers.

Well, enough for the gossip.

I would like to share a few tips on dogwoods with you. We are going to be doing winter clean up on our dogwood stock very soon and they are on my mind.

Dogwoods, bless em, can grow just about anywhere. In our northern California ecology, I have seen them wild in the woods – we don’t have hillsides covered in dogwoods, but when you find one, its quite beautiful – their large flowers are like lanterns of white in the soft shade of the forest floor. That’s where the dogwood really likes to be – it’s a shade plant that wants its share of moisture. They do not like it if they dry out.

Of course, the flowers are the selling point for the dogwood, but its foliage is delicate and beautiful as well. Generally, it takes 3 to 5 years before your dogwood will flower, but once it starts, it will flower heavily every other year.

•Plant yours in a well-drained area that has organic material and natural surface mulch available – if it isn’t there, bring it in.

•Do not plant in the full sun – your dogwood will scorch.

•Plant shallow but dig a good sized hole for each tree ( a foot & a half by three).

•As the warm weather comes on, be sure to water at least once a week.

They don’t grow rapidly, so, be patient.

Enjoy those flowers!

~Steve

How To: Not Suck at Succulent Care

Succulents are tough.  Not only can they live in some of the worst conditions on the planet, they are easy to kill.  Figure that one out.  They naturally grow in deserts, places where everything else withers and dies, they thrive.  Yet when you bring them home and give them water and nutrients they die.  I guess they are trying to tell us something.  Don’t Water Me!

These matching little beauties are planted in a copper tray. Very pretty display actually.

And any gardener knows, Not watering isn’t as easy as it seems.  When I see a dry pot, my first instinct is to water it.  When we first got our succulents from my Pa, we put them up in the hothouse and treated ‘em like all the other plants.  And they started to show their displeasure almost immediately.  But my dad quickly figured out what he was doing wrong, moved them to the back of the room, and stopped watering.  And now they are Glor-Ious!  Growing like mad!

These all started about 2" high with a few leaves, now they are 6-8" tall.

I was looking around for more information on caring for succulents and the consensus is only water once a week during peak season (mainly Spring and early Summer), and only water once a month during the Winter months.  Be careful though, some cacti and succulents are from the southern hemisphere and they consider our Spring/Summer their Winter, so adjust your watering schedule accordingly.  Another good tip for the unsure gardener, only water when the soil is dry completely through.  And when in doubt, Don’t Water!

One of the coolest things I read I found on CactusLands.  They said you can cover the topsoil of your succulent with pea gravel or crushed granite to help the soil dry at an even rate (helps keep the topsoil moist along with the rest).  It also helps the water distribute evenly.  Very cool.  And I think I’m gonna try it out on a few of ours.

See the little baby in the bottom left corner?

Along with the important lack of water, succulents also don’t particularly care for nutrients.  We planted our succulents in Black Gold (it received the National Home Garden Club Seal of Approval) which is a peat and perlite mixture with no fertilizers, and as I said, they are doing just great.  No matter what brand of soil you use, be sure it has good aeration to allow water and air to the roots.  If you do add nutrients to the soil (they like a little nitrogen) do so sparingly.

Don't water often, but enjoy the beauty when you do. I just love the droplets!

How To: Deer Control

What do you think when you think ‘Deer’.  Bambi right??  Cute sweet little doe-eyed deer.  And of course you’d be right.  I saw two baby deer on the road just this morning.  Covered in spots, bounding down the road.  AAWWWW, so adorable!

But too soon to grow into the ultimate De-struc-tor!  Seriously.  Here in the country, deer can destroy an entire crop in one night.  When we planted our first acre of olive trees, we of course fenced the space, but within a few days the deer damage was unavoidable.  They would skip one tree, only to nip off every single leaf, EVERY SINGLE LEAF, from the next one.  It is one of the saddest sights to walk down your orchard and see every other tree completely killed and eaten.

I've circled a bitten leaf for you, even though they are hard to miss. Sniff Sniff

But luckily, if you are diligent, they are easily defeated.  Deer may be insistent, but they aren’t exactly smart.  They can be easily fooled.  Smell is one of their most important senses.  If you strategically place smells they don’t like around your garden, orchard, vineyard, etc. you can keep the deer at bay.  If you live near neighbors, this may not be the best option but, you can pee around in random spots along the border of your homestead, the deer smell lingering human and avoid the area.

The same effect can be achieved by keeping your hair clippings (or go ask your local barber, I’m sure they would be willing to share a bag of hair with you, gross I know but effective).  Wrap a golf ball sized amount in a little cheese cloth, or even an old pair of nylons, and place them every five feet or so around your garden.  The smell will dissipate eventually, so replace them whenever you cut you or your families hair.

If you have a dog, or plan on getting a dog, walk them around your perimeter every day.  Have them do their business around the perimeter (feel free to join them ).  Not only will this put a ring of predator ferimones around your land, it will become part of your dogs habit, and at night they will protect your space!  (Additional bonus, this keeps Lots of different animals away.)

Of course you can always go with a more basic technique; sprinkle a little blood meal around your beds, a good fertilizer and also scares the deer away (blood equals danger, no surprise there).  Deer Out is a man made deer repellent.  They have a 100% money back guarantee, which is good, but the whole “pleasant peppermint scent” kind of puts me off.  Not sure why.  Maybe because I don’t care what it smells like, I just want it too work.  Another product I found, but haven’t tried, is Deer Away which claims to have no scent, but to be derived from rotten eggs.  I think this one might actually work like it says it does, because I know from personal experience Actual rotten eggs work wonders.  Sure they don’t smell great for a while but one must make sacrifices to be a gardener (or just buy the spray).

So to recap:

• Pee.  Everywhere.

• Walk your dog and have them pee.  Everywhere.

• Save your hair and make little balls and hang them.  Everywhere.

• Sprinkle blood and/or rotten egg.  Everywhere.

Did I forget anything?  Could this whole process sound any nastier?  But you know what, it works!  So suck it up, get your hands dirty, and have a bountiful harvest, deer free.

Buck standing at attention in the morning mist.

How To: Hydrangea Propagation

Close up on a young white Nigra Mandshurica Hydrangea

Nigra Mandshurica Hydrangea to be specific. It’s a beautiful sturdy plant with a very distinct dark purple stalk, which is the reason we decided this was the hydrangea for us. Our propagation efforts have been a success, filling our hothouse with lush green foliage.

Every hydrangea has the ability to change color. Nigra Mandshuricas are naturally light pink, but hydrangeas will change from white to pink to purple to blue depending on the aluminum content of the soil. Aluminum changes the pH; acidic soil equals blue flowers, alkaline soil equals pink or purple flowers, and neutral soil equals a unique creamy white. If you add a penny or two to the soil around the base of a Nigra Mandshurica which is currently blooming pink it will change to blue; be warned its hard to change back again (but not impossible).

You’ll need:

•a few clean razors

•a sharp pair of nips

•a small to medium cutting board

•rooting compound (like Rootone)

•2 small containers (old yogurt cups work)

•6 six pack containers (makes one tray)

•a propagation tray with dome cover

•porous soil mixture

Optional* a 60-65° heating pad and a comfortable place to sit

I recommend preparing your cutting station first. Fill the six packs with the soil and water well. It’s better to water from underneath by dipping the six packs (into your sink perhaps). Place your cutting board with razors on a flat clean surface, with the rooting compound near by in one of the small containers. Place the well watered tray to one side.

Freshly poked Nigra Mandshurica Hydrangea cuttings.

You’ll want to propagate your hydrangea early on a spring morning when it’s cooler. Be sure the plant is well watered and select a young fresh non-flowering top. Make your first cut with the nips, keeping the stem-tip about 3-4” long. Place in one of the small containers full of cool water. If you’re unsure, take about 6-12 stem-tips then return to your cutting station. No matter how many you take, be sure they don’t wilt, if they wilt throw them away.

Back at your cutting station you want to keep the cuttings in water and out of direct sun. Remove the lower leaves if there are any. Take the two top leaves and pinch together, using your nips cut half to two-thirds of the leaf off. You do this to reduce transpiration (leaf sweat), lessen crowding in the tray and encourage root growth. You’ll then cut the base of the stem-tip at a 45° angle about 2” from where the leaves split off, dip gently into the rooting compound and place directly into the dirt, about 1” deep. Repeat.

You’ll want to keep the tray moist and well ventilated, if you use plastic covers take them off during the day. Keep the tray warm but don’t place in direct sunlight. If all goes well rooting should occur within 10-12 days. They can be potted up within 4-6 weeks. If they are destined for the outdoors, keep them inside at night for a few weeks and don’t but them in direct sun. Once they are big and strong, feel free to plant in the ground.

Enjoy!

P.S. Click Here for a downloadable PDF of this information.

Gopher Control

Old timers have told me to just plant more and learn to live with the little demons. I do plant a little extra for the gophers, but I’d rather not.

Scare em

Sadly, most of the scare tactics I attempted have had limited results.I’ve tried pouring two mixtures, one of fresh cayenne and soapy water and the other of castor oil and soapy water, around my plants all along their beds. This seemed to work like a charm for the intended bed, but the gophers only showed up next door in my tomatoes. If your garden is small enough this will work, but if you have 30 beds, it can become a chore. In an effort to avoid this constant mixing and applying, I have companion-planted castor bean plants in my rows. Unfortunately, the results were nearly the same; any plants within a few feet of the castor beans were OK, but my vegetables were at risk again outside the protective influence of the castor bean’s dense root system. Gophers are said to shy away from plantings of scilla(squill) bulbs, so you might try those as well. I have not been pleased with thumpers, windmills or bottles thrust down holes in the runs; the gophers seem to grow used to them. Collect your cat’s poop (ewww!) and drop it down their holes – this will often get them running. more