Moist May…& June ~ Steve

It is very, very wet in the nursery…

I am a long time resident in my northern California area and we haven’t had consistent spring rains like this in some while. It is hard to complain about the rain, but I am getting to a point where I could. Its not just that its hard to work the nursery in the rain – what with the mud and the constant moisture (even on a “dry” day we can get a soaking from the heavily dewed meadow grass) – I think its the waiting. Waiting for that warm weather that is going to put everything over the top. Oh, mind you, later I will probably complain about the hot and really dry weather that will be beating down on us.
So, you might wonder what how we fill in those rainy days? Well, there is no lack of work around here. But, first of all…
~our seed Grosso Romanesco artichoke are outrageously Jurassic – they like the wet!
~our potted trees in the holding yard are also very happy – they are ready for growth but welcome the moderate spring temperature as they leaf out – the Japanese maples are absolutely blazing.

~I ought to mention our oak woods as well. They are very enchanting this time of year – moss and fern covered beauties. Someday I have got to catalog all the plants that live with and on the local oaks.
Anyway, what with the rain, we try to work indoors if we can. This spring we have been getting our young fig and our white oak babies rooted as well as propagating hydrangea and succulents. Our bottom-heated misting beds have helped here.
The succulents are serious fun. The bulbous kinds are very easy to propagate – just stick ‘em in the dirt really. The kind that make a rosette of “petals” tend to make daughter plants, especially when you crowd them. Be patient and in a short while they will establish themselves. We don’t water them more than once a week and once they set we reduce the water even further. A well-watered succulent is usually a dead succulent.
The afternoon sky outside my window is clear and crisp; the clouds are dirty grey lined with startingly white edges. Right now, the rain has backed off to reveal the summer I want, if only the spring clouds would move on.

They will.

How To: Hydrangea Propagation

Close up on a young white Nigra Mandshurica Hydrangea

Nigra Mandshurica Hydrangea to be specific. It’s a beautiful sturdy plant with a very distinct dark purple stalk, which is the reason we decided this was the hydrangea for us. Our propagation efforts have been a success, filling our hothouse with lush green foliage.

Every hydrangea has the ability to change color. Nigra Mandshuricas are naturally light pink, but hydrangeas will change from white to pink to purple to blue depending on the aluminum content of the soil. Aluminum changes the pH; acidic soil equals blue flowers, alkaline soil equals pink or purple flowers, and neutral soil equals a unique creamy white. If you add a penny or two to the soil around the base of a Nigra Mandshurica which is currently blooming pink it will change to blue; be warned its hard to change back again (but not impossible).

You’ll need:

•a few clean razors

•a sharp pair of nips

•a small to medium cutting board

•rooting compound (like Rootone)

•2 small containers (old yogurt cups work)

•6 six pack containers (makes one tray)

•a propagation tray with dome cover

•porous soil mixture

Optional* a 60-65° heating pad and a comfortable place to sit

I recommend preparing your cutting station first. Fill the six packs with the soil and water well. It’s better to water from underneath by dipping the six packs (into your sink perhaps). Place your cutting board with razors on a flat clean surface, with the rooting compound near by in one of the small containers. Place the well watered tray to one side.

Freshly poked Nigra Mandshurica Hydrangea cuttings.

You’ll want to propagate your hydrangea early on a spring morning when it’s cooler. Be sure the plant is well watered and select a young fresh non-flowering top. Make your first cut with the nips, keeping the stem-tip about 3-4” long. Place in one of the small containers full of cool water. If you’re unsure, take about 6-12 stem-tips then return to your cutting station. No matter how many you take, be sure they don’t wilt, if they wilt throw them away.

Back at your cutting station you want to keep the cuttings in water and out of direct sun. Remove the lower leaves if there are any. Take the two top leaves and pinch together, using your nips cut half to two-thirds of the leaf off. You do this to reduce transpiration (leaf sweat), lessen crowding in the tray and encourage root growth. You’ll then cut the base of the stem-tip at a 45° angle about 2” from where the leaves split off, dip gently into the rooting compound and place directly into the dirt, about 1” deep. Repeat.

You’ll want to keep the tray moist and well ventilated, if you use plastic covers take them off during the day. Keep the tray warm but don’t place in direct sunlight. If all goes well rooting should occur within 10-12 days. They can be potted up within 4-6 weeks. If they are destined for the outdoors, keep them inside at night for a few weeks and don’t but them in direct sun. Once they are big and strong, feel free to plant in the ground.

Enjoy!

P.S. Click Here for a downloadable PDF of this information.